Kapayvanuvanua

Some memories shine brighter than others, and we were privileged to witness something special: the kapayvanuvanua (‘opening the port’ for the dorado season) of the Diura fishing village in Basco. On March 2nd, fishermen started to gather at four in the morning, dropping off their shares of breadfruit leaves, wood for kindling, and cups of instant soup. The ceremony involved killing a pig, dragging one leg over the stretch of sand where the boats would depart from, calling to the ocean, and reading the entrails to predict the season’s success. Food is cooked onsite and all present are handed a leaf plate groaning with meat and rice.